Adventures with Retrobright

If you have a computer from the 80’s, chances are it has yellowed with age. But what if there was a proven method to reverse the yellowing process? It turns out that there is such a solution, and it’s in the form of a tested chemical concoction known as Retr0 Brite (referred to as RetroBright for the remaining post).

I was skeptical at first. Then I did my research. A lot of research. Finally, after arriving at James Wages’ Flickr RetroBright page, I decided to try my hand at the RetroBright process.

To make RetroBright, you need the following:

• Hydrogen Peroxide H2O2 (3% concentration)
• OxiClean powder
• a glass measuring cup
• a paintbrush
• Saran cling wrap
• rubber gloves
• a microwave oven
• the Sun

You can obtain nearly all of these items from a hardware store, for about $20US total. I followed James Wages’ well documented process to the letter when creating the RetroBright mixture. It has produced excellent results. I suggest using the liquid version of RetroBright, which is comprised of 50mL of H2O2 and 1/4 teaspoon of OxiClean.

Below are a series of Before photos of my newly acquired Mac IIci case. I wouldn’t categorize it as heavily yellowed, but yellowing was noticeable, particularly on the back and side panels of the unit.

I started out with the gel version of RetroBright, which requires the addition of corn starch to bind the liquid into a paste. I didn’t have much luck with getting a spreadable gel, so I started over again by making a liquid based version instead. Regardless of which version you make, it’s strongly advisable to wear rubber gloves and goggles after preparing the RetroBright solution. Failure to do so can result in some pretty serious burns (especially if you go with a higher Hydrogen Peroxide concentration).

Initially I used a cling wrap after applying RetroBright to the case (using the paintbrush). This was recommended on a few forums to keep the RetroBright solution from drying out. I decided against the cling wrap, and chose to reapply the RetroBright solution at regular intervals (one application every 20 minutes or so), under the sun.

As RetroBright dries (which usually takes 5 minutes under the sun), it creates a white, powdery film on top of the surface. At this point, I would apply another fresh coating of RetroBright. I repeated the process about 4 times.

I started the RetroBright process at 9:30AM, checking on it at regular intervals, and readjusting the IIci’s case to face the sun. After 1PM, I brought the case back inside and used a warm, soapy water solution to remove the RetroBright coating. The results were impressive.

Below are a few photos of my IIci after RetroBright.

This effect is, by no means, permanent. Exposure to heat over time will cause the case to yellow once more. According to the original RetroBright chemist (named Merlin, no less), adding a clear, satin finish acrylic lacquer with a UV blocker or UV filter can stave off the yellowing effects, because it’s cutting off the oxygen to the plastic finish. I haven’t tried this as yet, but it is something I’m thinking about.

I learned a few things in the process of making and using RetroBright. First and foremost, put cling wrap on the inside of the case and any other area that’s not plastic. This will keep the RetroBright solution from contacting metal areas (which can lead to metal discoloration). Ideally, you’ll want to strip the unit down to the case only before applying RetroBright. Second, if you’re working with a vintage Apple machine, be careful not to use RetroBright on the colorful Apple logo, or you risk ruining it altogether. Removing the logo is advisable, or if that’s not an option, you can cover the logo up with cling wrap before applying RetroBright to the case.

I’m very pleased with the results gained from using RetroBright.

Krishna March 6, 2016